1. AERATION- Loosening the soil so that water, air and nutrients reach the root zone quicker. Aeration enhances the effectiveness of the products applied to your lawn. By loosening the soil, items needed by the roots (air, water & nutrients), are more available. Therefore, when fertilizer is applied, it is used more effectively by the grass plants.

Core aeration is accomplished by running a machine over the lawn. The machine pulls up plugs of soil, about the size of your finger, and leaves them on the ground. It takes a couple of weeks for the plugs to break up and blend back into the lawn. Liquid aeration provides the same great results as core aeration but is much easier to do. It also is cheaper, and cleaner.

2. MOWING - In general, keep fescue, rye and bluegrass mowed at a minimum of three inches. Zoysia and bermuda grasses can be mowed shorter. Mowing at the proper height will strengthen the grass plant and inhibit the growth of unwanted weeds. As a matter fact, studies have shown that simply mowing at the correct height will eliminate crabgrass over time. The shorter the grass is cut, the shorter the roots will be. Mowing high causes the grass to shade the weeds, so they cannot grow. Mowing high also makes the grass stronger, as more grass is using the sun to make it grow. Always keep your mower blade SHARP! Sharpen the blade after 8-10 hours of use. Grass clippings are a good source of nitrogen for your lawn. It is recommended that you not bag your grass clippings. Let those clipping fall to the ground and breakdown, thus returning nutrients to the soil.

The frequency of mowing should be such that you cut 1/3 of the grass stem off each time. Removing more than 1/3 of the grass stem at a time will damage the plant. This means that you should mow your grass at or before it reaches 4-1/2 inches. During periods of drought it is advised that you mow even higher, at 4” or more. It also advised that you mow higher in areas that are heavily shaded.

3. PROPER WATERING - Proper watering encourages grass growth and deters weed growth. Watering too frequently will actually discourage grass growth, as the roots are not required to go deep to find their water source. Weed roots are much shorter than grass roots, so watering less frequently will cause the weed roots to die, while the longer grass roots will be seeking deeper water. The grass will tell you when to water, usually once a week. The grass blades will begin to curl when they need water. They will curl before they turn brown. Another way to tell is to walk across your grass and take a look where you walked.

If your footprints remain, the grass needs some water. If your footprints disappear, the grass is fine.
You should water all areas of your lawn with an inch of water. Simply set a cup in the watered area and keep an eye on the water level in the cup. When it reaches an inch, stop. To conserve water, water right after it rains. You will need to know how much rain fell, then “top it off” until you have an inch.

4. WEEDS & TRIMMING -Have you ever given any thought as to why weeds tend to grow next to the fence, or the driveway, or around the planted areas? The answer is probably that these are the areas you are using the trimmer in. If you are mowing your lawn at the proper height, usually 3 inches, chances are the middle of your lawn looks nice. The problem areas tend to be the edges of the lawn, where the trimmer is used.

Weeds love to be cut short, and it is difficult to maintain a consistently high cut when using a trimmer. Besides the fact that weeds thrive when cut short, they also thrive in these closely cut areas because the grass is cut too short to shade the growth of the weeds. So, take a little extra time when trimming to keep the trimmer up in the air, instead of letting it touch the ground.

5. SHADED AREAS -Shaded areas of your lawn are probably the most difficult area to have a healthy lawn in.

Below are suggestions for dealing with the shade.

- The amount of sunlight can be increased by trimming the lower branches, and thinning higher branches of trees.
- You can trim shrubs to allow more air movement. To further reduce stress on grass in shaded areas, you may choose to mow this area 1/2 to 1 inch higher.
- Increased fertilizer will also help.
- If you plan to seed a shady area, be sure to use seed which is shade tolerant.

6. SEED & SEEDING -Unless you have a specific preference for a particular variety of grass, I suggest you use a mix of grass seed. Using a mix will help you obtain a uniformly green lawn, as different varieties of grass green up at different times, and some do better in different areas of your lawn than others. So, using a mix, will keep the entire lawn looking nice. Using a mixture of fescue, bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass. The key to choosing seed is to make sure the seed is high quality and contains very few weed seeds. All seed bags have a label which will list the content varieties of the seed, and the percentage of weed seed included. To determine if you need to seed and how extensive the seeding needs to be, you will need to take a close look at your lawn. Basically, if you do not have much grass, you need to do extensive seeding and work the seed into the soil. If you have a pretty good stand of grass, you can simply sow the seed and leave it alone. If you are pleased with the thickness of your lawn, you can probably skip seeding, and only do it every other year.

“Weed control is more than making a pretty yard. Weeds compete with grasses for water and nutrients,” says Walheim. “A well-cared-for, vigorous lawn will resist weed invasions.”

Below are the five steps to keep your yard in top shape for weed resistance:

1. Mow high – Mow the upper end portion of the required height for the type of your grass encourages deeper roots and better heat as well as drought tolerance because the grass helps shade the soil to reduce evaporation and it maximize the soil moisture content. With this, the need for frequent water could be minimize. Mower should be set at 11/2 inches high for common Bermuda; 1 inch high for hybrid Bermuda; 3 inches high for tall fescue; 21/2 inches for Kentucky bluegrass; and 21/2 to 3 inches for St. Augustine.

2. Water properly – Water the soil thoroughly down to its depth of 6 – 8 inches to prevent shallow root system, It is important to wet the soil properly so they could absorb the water very well. To check for its thorough absorption of water, insert a rod or screwdriver into the soil; it will stop when it reaches dry dirt.

3. Fertilize at the right time of year - This is one of the most important step. This depends on the type of grass. Fall or spring for cool-season lawns and late spring and early summer for warm-season lawns. But be aware of the insects that might ruin your grass like grubs that eat grass roots.

4. Aerate and dethatch - Remove small cores of soil as it is necessary for better water and penetration of nutrients.

5. Kill weeds – Buy such product that would be best for your lawn and try to know what kind of weeds you have in your lawn so you could have the right protection for your lawn against weeds. And learn to follow instructions properly.

Source: Lawn Care

One of the most important tool of lawn care is to watering your lawn and when it and when watering your lawn, you need to have proper lawn sprinkler. There are six general types of sprinkler to help you determine which of them to use according to your lawn’s size, layout of yard, soil type and price range.

1. Stationary Lawn Sprinkler – This sprinkler is very affordable. They come in different designs. Its lawn’s area mostly depend on the shape, size and pattern of the holes and on the water pressure as well. Stationary sprinkler works best with low water pressure but they don’t throw water too far that’s why they are good for small areas of lawn since most of them spray water through pattern of holes in its top.

2. Rotary – also called a revolving sprinkler because the water is thrown from the tips of two or three spinning arms. This is not recommended for sandy or sloped areas since the water goes down quickly. They work best on similar lawns because rotary types have a low throw radius. And during hot summer, its great for kids to run through.

3. Oscillating – It is the most common among the six types. As we usually see on lawns, they spray out a fan-shaped curtain of water and they are a metal arm oscillates back and forth to cover a rectangular area. It is ideal for watering big areas of lawn because of its Oscillating types. Also, Its gentle spray is perfect for newly seeded areas and clay soils that absorb water slowly.

4. Pulsating – an impulse sprinkler for large lawns and is consider the most effecient among the six types. A very durable kind that has a single water jet that sits close to the ground. Distribution of water is even over large areas with circular or semi-circular patterns. Its spray of water on the ground is very strong making it wide resistant that is close to the ground so the lawns could absorb water easily. And you can select spray patterns as you would like to be so you can control the height of the stream. As well as adjust the spray to full jet and fine mist for newly seeded lawns.

5. Traveling Versions – Also a self-propelled type of sprinkler that have wheels and follow a garden hose. Its cord is laid out by the user. Its pattern is two rotating arms spray water in a circular. The arms can be adjusted to vary the diameter of the spray circle. This type is expensive and well made. The arms can be adjusted to fit the diameter of the spray circle. When choosing a traveling version, this could be the best among other types because it can be use to water large, irregular lawns over several hours and make sure it has an automatic shut off valve.

6. In-ground Systems – Lastly, the in-ground sprinkler or lawn irrigation system that is best for large lawns or in those regions that grass doesn’t grow very well without enough supplement of water. This is also expensive to install and purchase. But once installed, you’ll not gonna be using a hose around to water your lawn. And when you’re away, Make sure they are installed in a pattern that ensures complete and uniform coverage.

Source: Lawn Sprinkler

Renovate your dull, full of weeds, thin and thatchy lawn to give new fresh look. Here are Simple steps to follow:

1. Plan renovation so you can reseed during ideal planting time ‘ early fall or early spring for most typical cool-season grasses, such as bluegrass and fescue.

2. Kill the whole lawn if it is hopelessly infested with weeds; spray with a broad-spectrum herbicide like glyphosate (Clean-up or Round-up), and wait the length of time recommended on the label before proceeding with replanting. If weeds are not a big problem, you don’t have to kill anything.

    

3. Dethatch the lawn with a power dethatcher, available for rent at many rental yards.

4. Rake up the thatch and dispose of it, or add it to a compost pile.

5. Aerate the lawn with a power aerator, available at rental yards. Leave the dug-up cores (they’ll break down) or rake them up.

6. Level uneven spots by spreading topsoil and raking.

7. Reseed the lawn with a grass type adapted to your area.

8. Lightly cover the seed with 1/4 inch of organic matter spread with a cage roller; see “How to Plant a Lawn From Seed.” Apply dry lawn fertilizer, and water it as recommended.

9. Keep the new lawn moist until grass is established. Then water as usual.

Tips & Warnings

- It may take several weeks for sprayed weeds to die completely, so plan ahead accordingly. If you have really tough weeds, such as Bermuda grass, you may have to spray again in a few weeks to kill them completely.

- It will be easiest to use a dethatcher and aerator if the ground is lightly moist, not soggy or dry.

- Adjust the depth of the dethatcher blades to match the thickness of the thatch.

- Most herbicides work best if sprayed during hot weather.

- Follow herbicide label instructions precisely. Many herbicides will kill any plant they touch, so avoid spraying on windy days.

- Flag below-ground sprinklers before operating equipment. Otherwise, you may damage them.

Source: eHow

Keeping a a healthy green lawn will be very difficult without these major tools needed by your lawn:
1. Lawn Mower

This is the top most important tool needed for lawn care. No matter how big or wide or long your lawn is you need to cut them more often to keep it look tidy and clean and that would be easy for you to maintain them. Thus, you need a lawn mower. There are many different types of lawn mowers, and you can pick the one that is right for you. If you don’t have much of a lawn to mow you can buy a mower that you push. However, there are also riding lawn mowers that are becoming less and less expensive that you can buy in order to have the lawn of your dreams.

2. Rakes

Another important thing you need are rakes to clean up lawns. It comes in different types that you can use for grass,leaves, and debris. You can use the simple type as long as it can be strong enough to clean up your lawn and gentle enough for your lawn not to get hurt.

3. Watering System

Another essential tool for lawn care is water. Not just humans do need water but lawns and plants as well. For small lawns, a hose could be fine but for larger ones a sprinkler would be the best to make sure all parts of it has absorbed with water. But you have to also be aware of the proper watering system for lawns to avoid mistake.

4. Trash Bin

This trash bin is an important part of lawn care since all garbages are being kept in it. So the leaves and sticks should be put in its designated place too.

5. A Good Shovel

Living in an area where it snows should know the importance of the snow removal items.but if not, you are going to have to have a shovel. A good shovel is an important part of lawn care. You can use it to dig holes, to get rid of things that are on your lawn that you don’t want, and for a whole variety of reasons. You should always be sure that you have one at your disposal.

Lawn care is a big factor for your lawns at home. And you should make sure that you have all these pieces to make your lawns healthy. Its something that takes a lot of practice, more effort and time with patience but it can be much easier if you take the time to make sure you have the correct tools before you start. It can be much easier that way.

Source: lawn care

Flowers

The cool new season flowers that can be planted now are: carnation, foxglove, pansy, petunia, snapdragon, Shasta daisy, ornamental kale and ornamental cabbage. try to move potted tropical and subtropical plants inside . schefflera and philodendrons are patio plants that are cold sensitive they should not be exposed to 40°F nights. Temperatures in the 40’s and even 50’s, though they might not result in frost-like damage, can cause long-term problems.
Trees and Shrubs

This is the perfect time to plant these ornamental trees and shrubs. Find and order fruit trees to be planted this december.Apply horticultural oil if scales, mites, and other plant sucking insects have been a problem on woody ornamentals.This is the time to identify local plants that has the best fall leaf color. Some that is considered for planting are: black gum, hickory, dogwood, crape myrtle, sweetgum, oakleaf hydrangea and red maple. And this is also the best time for transplanting trees and shrubs. Magnolia and dogwood seeds can be harvested and planted as soon as they are ripe. To prevent for drying out,remove the outer pulp and try to plant them immediately.

Fruits and Nuts

Strawberries are planted before November 15 as well as Recommended varieties for North Florida include: Florida 90, Chandler, Dover, Florida Belle, Oso Grande, Sweet Charlie and Selva.

Vegetable Garden

These winter veggies should be planted by winter: beets, broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, carrots, Chinese cabbage, collards, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, mustards, onions, parsley, radish and spinach. And the vines begin to die, harvest gourds, butternut squash, pumpkins and other curcurbits as Clip, don’t break about 2 inches of stem with each fruit

Lawns

Water keeps the lawn healthy on winter season during dry weather. And for a grener lawn, sow annual rye grass at the beginning of the month and fertilize annual rye grass with a complete fertilizer after it has been mowed a few times. Apply at the rate of ½ lb of nitrogen per 1000 sqft. And the permanent lawn (centipede and St. Augustine, in particular) should be allowed to slowly go dormant by withholding fertilizer.

Source: Garden Tips

As we all know, watering is a very important process in caring for our lawn. Without water, the grass won’t grow healthy and a beautiful lawn won’t be the result.

There are two types of watering. The first is establishment watering, done by watering everyday, preferably three times a day for short periods of time. If you have an automatic watering system, set it to water in the morning, in the early afternoon, and at 6 or 7 o’clock at night.  If you water by hand, water until the point of runoff. do this everyday until the new grass is out of the ground and has grown to around three inches tall.

The mowing will then start at this stage. Remember to let the ground dry before mowing.

After mowing, start watering again, only with half the amount of water compared to establishment watering. Maintenance watering is done by watering every other day, and in longer periods of time. Gradually change your watering schedule to once or twice a week only, and in longer periods of time, enough to soak the ground to six inches deep.

Do not water at night at this stage. Watering at night will encourage the growth of fungus, which can kill the new grass. When fungus grows on your lawn, your grass will look like it needs more water. However, more water will bring about more fungal growth. When this happens, it is advised that you get help from a local lawn spray company.