Thatch is a layer of dead stems and roots that can build up on the surface of the soil. Digging into the lawn with your finger, would help you differentiate between the soft, light thatch and the hard, heavy soil. A quarter inch thick layer of thatch is of no concern. If thatch is an inch thick, disease problems are almost sure to occur. Keeping the lawn green will also make a lawn require more water and fertilizer. There are several products available to reduce thatch. They contain microbes that will break down thatch quicker. If the thatch is an inch thick, then it is better to use a thatcher, also called a power rake, to quickly remove thatch before diseases develop. Before using a thatcher, mow the grass as low as possible to reduce the damage to the grass. Set the depth on the thatcher so the teeth just reach the mineral soil. Then run the thatcher over the lawn twice, going east-west one time and north-south the other. The loosened thatch then needs to be raked up and hauled away. Do not bother adding it to the compost pile since it is tough roots and stems which are very slow to break down.

Thatching usually leaves bare patches so it is a good idea to spread starter fertilizer and grass seed after thatching so the bare patches fill in before weeds get started. The frequency of thatching depends on the type of grass. Bentgrass, Kentucky bluegrass and creeping fescue may need to be thatched every year or two. Perennial ryegrass and tall fescue may never need to be thatched.

This entry was posted on Wednesday, August 29th, 2007 at 2:33 pm and is filed under Thatching. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.